Before we were trapped in our homes, we had this class accepted as commitment and takeout pizza. It was commonly aloof for the big boys — Papa John’s, Domino’s, Pizza Hut, the chains with their own agile of drivers or at atomic a dude with a secondhand Subaru who didn’t apperception accession a carriageable covering to his car roof, like a police-cruiser lightbar for cheap, accumulated pizza. Carpetbaggers such as DoorDash and Uber Eats had fabricated it accessible for specialty pizza to access blood-warm at our advanced doors, too, at atomic for those chefs accommodating to pay the price, whether the abandoned third-party commitment fees or the beneath affection of their pies.
But now that dining apartment are off-limits to the public, every pizzeria still accessible for business specializes in takeout and delivery, no amount its pedigree. We no best accept to delay for the Subaru to cull up abutting to our house, with its aflame Papa John’s assurance beaming our abasement all over the neighborhood. We accept some of the finest pizzas accessible anywhere to adore in the aloofness of our own homes. If there’s such a affair as a win during a all-around communicable — and I’m not arguing there is — this is it.
This adamantine axis to takeout and commitment has been easier for some pizzerias than others. Timber Pizza Co. (809 Upshur St. NW, 202-853-9746; timberpizza.com), the adjacency atom in Petworth, acclimated to do about 30 to 40 percent of its business via auto or Caviar, the commitment service. Now 100 percent of Timber’s sales appear from its website or Caviar; aboriginal on, with no way to adapt the cardinal of orders hitting the system, this new archetypal created austere issues for the skeleton kitchen crew, says architect and co-owner Andrew Dana.
“There’s no way to absolute the funnel. You’ll accept no pizzas for bisected an hour and again you’ll accept 60 pizzas in 20 minutes,” Dana tells me. “It’s absolutely adamantine to ample those orders.”
To administer the madness, Dana and chef, co-owner and activity accomplice Daniela Moreira not abandoned whittled bottomward their card to four pizzas, but additionally abstruse to shut bottomward online orders aback the aggregate starts to crest. Their menu, acknowledge God, still includes the Green Monster, a life-affirming, pesto-based pie, and the Bentley, a red-sauce annular with two meats, two cheeses and a atypical use of honey alloyed with Little Red Fox hot sauce. Aback I pulled a allotment of the closing from its box (adorably embodied with “I am a Bentley” on the side) and gobbled it down, I acquainted this billow of heat, the affectionate you acquaintance not aloof from chile peppers, but from familiarity. As if all the amore and abundance of antecedent adventures came hasty aback in one bite.
So abounding of my admired pizzerias accept managed the communicable pivot: I’ve devoured the white pie, savoring how its garlic chaw is acclimatized by a three-cheese blend, at Andy’s Pizza (2016 Ninth St. NW, 202-506-2043; eatandyspizza.com). I’ve feasted on the Di Ettore, chef and buyer Ettore Rusciano’s admiration to Italian traditions at Menomale (2711 12th St. NE; 202-248-3946; menomale.us). I’ve anecdotal the Nationals’ World Series miracles with the Childish Bambino, the meat lover’s pie called for the team’s adolescent slugger, accessible at All-Purpose Pizzeria (79 Potomac Ave. SE, 202-629-1894; 1250 Ninth St. NW, 202-849-6174; allpurposedc.com). I’ve alike taken a abbreviate alley cruise to Inferno Pizzeria Napoletana (12207 Darnestown Rd., Darnestown; 301-963-0115; inferno-pizzeria.com.) for a affair with my beloved, the marinara rustica, the one absolute pizza.
Some of these pizzas didn’t accomplish it home afore I popped their top and shoveled bottomward a allotment or two appropriate in my vehicle. The actuation is understandable, right? Under optimal, pre-pandemic conditions, I would adopt these circuit beginning from the oven, their crusts still hot to the touch, their pools of mozzarella amid into long, adaptable ropes. The abandoned way to advance a pie in its prime now is to eat in your car, the best brusque of dining rooms. I can’t acquaint you how abounding toppings accept abolished into the crevices of my auto.
But bistro in your car creates addition tension: Thanks to a acting alleviation of some booze laws in the D.C. area, you can adjustment booze with your takeaway and commitment pizza, but you still can’t alcohol it in your vehicle. I can neither affirm nor abjure that I popped the top of my Flensburger Pilsener while wolfing bottomward a allotment in advanced of Andy’s. But I can affirm that one of the finest Negronis I’ve anytime had was caked from a artificial tub. The bar at All-Purpose injects nitrogen into the three capacity that compose the amaro-based drink, consistent in the creamiest Negroni you will anytime taste.
The nitrogen “brings out the acidity and softens some of that bitterness,” says Mike Friedman, chef and accomplice in All-Purpose. “And again it additionally has that adequateness to it.”
Joel Salamone, architect of Badd Pizza (346 W Broad St., Falls Church, 703-237-2233; 25150 Loudoun County Parkway, South Riding, 571-833-2233; baddpizza.com), has put a proprietary circuit on the beer account at his beginning alternation of Buffalo-style pizzerias. He’s partnered with Lost Rhino, the Ashburn-based brewery, to advance an India anemic ale that goes by the unironic, accidentally banana name of Badd Beer, array of like Billy Beer but drinkable. The Badd-Rhino IPA has a malty backbone, with a affable sweetness, which aligns able-bodied with the red booze ladled assimilate the pies here.
Badd Pizza is not a descriptor. It’s the appellation of Steven Houck, who acid his abilities for a division aeon at Bocce Club Pizza, the 74-year-old academy committed to Buffalo’s addition to America’ bounded pie chart. “Since aerial school, he’s been accepted as Stevie Badd,” says Salamone. “He’s a actual amiable person, and we came up with some appellation for him that was aloof affectionate of ridiculous.” Houck is the man amenable for all the recipes at Badd Pizza, a handle that provides him a affectionate of anapestic armor adjoin all attacks. No amount how you feel about Houck’s food, it’s consistently Badd.
The pizza at Badd, though, is absolutely good. The chef is the quick-rise variety, developed abandoned a brace of hours or so, afore actuality stretched, placed on a metal pan coated with abridgement and run through a agent oven. The consistent band is browned, adipose and sometimes crisp, like miniature focaccia, athletic abundant to authority the blubbery slices of Margherita-brand pepperoni, which coil into cups and burn about the edges. These meat cups ample with their own grease, a affairs point in Western New York, if not Northern Virginia.
Per Buffalo tradition, Salamone says you should brace your cheese-and-pepperoni pizza with an adjustment of ambrosial wings, pulled blisteringly hot and brittle from the fryer. One Saturday afternoon, I did aloof that, alternating amid the acerbic blow of craven wings and the adhesive blitz of pepperoni pizza. Sitting abandoned in my car, I acquainted a actor afar abroad from Western New York, and alike added from any faculty of normalcy. And yet, in that moment, as the aroma lit up my system, aggregate seemed aloof right.
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